Installed at Mugler for over two years now, David Koma has turned a new generation of nubile 20-somethings and wish-they-were-still 20-somethings on to body con. This being Resort, there were plenty of cutout, clingy minidresses on offer. The news was in their hues: Hot shades of coral and pink paired with black on one tube dress, and on another number very much inspired by a dress from the Mugler archives, a rainbow wave of color cascaded from neck to mid-thigh hem. Despite the curvy look of his dresses, Koma’s lines have always been sharp and angular, the cutouts geometric. Here, he liked a more organic look for his necklines, hems, and cutouts, and coupled with the fresh colors, it made for a softer, sweeter overall effect. The midriff cutout on a calf-length tank dress was gathered with a drawstring. It was another nice extension of what has become a familiar look.
Koma’s most interesting work here centered around tailoring. Mugler, of course, will forever be known for the strong shoulder and nipped-waist silhouette he made his signature in the ’80s. Updated with softer, less extreme lines and slightly rounded sleeves, and what is no doubt a comfier, easier-to-wear fabric, Koma’s jackets look right for 2016.
