A representative for Maison Margiela prefaced a showroom visit by explaining John Galliano’s vision of the brand as a pyramid, its tip occupied by the Artisanal collection. This logical depiction of how the rarefied designs flow downward to retail also applies to access—few will own a museum-worthy objet d’art from Artisanal, but far more can buy the citron yellow organza windbreaker that stood out among the Resort offering. Not by accident, the small selection of looks provided here were the beginning of a far larger commercial collection that will fill department store racks and stand-alone stores. This might explain the emphasis on understatement. Jaws weren’t dropping, but there was still much worth noting.
To wit, the placket peeling off a classic trench or the crackle paint–treated 5AC bag; both hewed to slightly conceptual Maison Margiela fare. But then an embroidered pleated organza bustier over a silk shirt confirmed Galliano’s feminine influence. While a tweed dress under a mesh-lined sport vest and an ivory suit straddling tux and track showed the inescapable influence of athletic attire, a generously tailored coat with exaggerated, angular details felt faithful to what Galliano has proposed thus far. The look that paired a pleated skirt with a solid red shell solved how to dress well as the weather turns increasingly weird—a trend not going away anytime soon. The double-face duffle coat and suede anorak also transcended trend by boosting the luxe. Were you expecting to find a collection so unchallenging? Likely not. But in accordance with Galliano’s pyramid, anything designed to last rises from good building blocks.
