Jenny Packham shows her collections in New York, but it’s worth noting that she has a significant business in the Middle East. Here in the States, eveningwear is shifting in a cleaner, more minimal direction—and not just because of changing trends. Nineties-era slip dresses and simple columns are more comfortable, more affordable, and lend themselves to more occasions, than, say, a crystal-encrusted gown. Of course, Packham’s shoppers in Dubai are still embracing her embellished, princess-worthy confections, and they might buy a new one for every major event.
With that in mind, Packham aimed to satisfy both camps with Resort. Taking inspiration from India, she mixed classic sequins with flower-shaped paillettes and paisley motifs that added a playful feel, and plucked rich colors like “Rani pink” and ocher from India’s spice markets. New Yorkers won’t find anything particularly minimal here, but a few gowns with rich floral embroideries did feel more casual; a nipped-waist chiffon number in pale buttercup would look sweet at a garden party or summer wedding. Still, it would be nice to see what Packham might do with a slip dress—after nearly three decades in business, they would no doubt be lovely.
