Having seen Jason Wu’s electric Spring show, the Resort photos he’s releasing today in advance of the clothes’ arrival in stores look like a test run in a lower key. That’s not a negative. Wu’s neon-tinted Spring collection was true to the flirtatious, whimsical aesthetic of his early years while retaining the streamlined modernism of more recent seasons; it was the Wu at his best. Resort, too, finds Wu in fine form, splicing floral prints together on slip and T-shirt dresses, and doing the same with mismatched black lace on evening numbers. These dresses are complicated feats of construction—pity the poor patternmakers!—but they come off fluidly and they look like they’d be a nearly weightless, effortless pleasure to wear.
Wu played against type with a pair of oversize loden green pants that pooled at the model’s feet; his customers will more likely gravitate toward a neatly tailored coat and the razor-sharp, ankle-grazing trousers he paired with it. Elsewhere, his ribbed knit separates and clingy knit slip dress with asymmetric hem were a smart balance of strict and sensual.