Fashion cycles through retro references so often, and at such a fast pace these days, it’s really getting to be a challenge for a designer to make a flashback theme look fresh. Kudos, then, to Isa Arfen designer Serafina Sama, who found something new to say about Space Age aesthetics this season. Riffing off William Claxton’s iconic mid-1960s snaps of Gernreich-clad Peggy Moffitt, Sama imported a few elements of the era’s look into her own Isa Arfen idiom; the inspiration made for a nice fit, inasmuch as Sama is nearly as playful a designer as Rudi Gernreich, albeit in much quieter, more seemly ways.
A few ideas stood out. One of these was the chain halter attached to high-waist pants and mini and pencil skirts, which completely changed the tone of these familiar silhouettes. By analogy, the chain was an exclamation point: “Yes.” became “Yes!” Sama’s other, even better good idea was to reinterpret that signature ’60s A-line shape by spiral-cutting silk shantung and layering it, wavelike, to make unfussy eveningwear. Other strong pieces here expanded on that sense of ease, notably the drop-shoulder shirting, foolproof houndstooth jumpsuits with crystal-studded zips, and deadpan trousers and button-downs given a jolt via metallic silk and lace. All in all, the collection was more Isa Arfen–y than it was Space Age ’60s-ish, which was why it worked. If you’re a designer taking a whack at something vintage, the best policy is: Never borrow; always steal.
