Helmut Lang, like the other God of ’90s fashion, Martin Margiela, is much referenced in 2016 collections. In its recent iteration, the label that bears his name paid not much heed to the Lang heritage, but in its new incarnation, the Helmut codes are being put to timely use. Those who wore the brand two decades ago and those who trawl eBay for vintage pieces will recognize through lines between then and now—now being the brand’s new Resort collection.
Everything here from tailored jackets to fine-gauge knits had strapping details, a utilitarian-slash-decorative nod in Lang’s direction. The sand and red color combination of a fine-ribbed sweater and straight-leg silk trousers with a waistband strap is a matchup that Helmut used on occasion. There was also a sheepskin-lined parka. The parka is a de rigueur item everywhere now; remember, though, Lang was the first to put a designer spin on the functional outerwear way back when.
The Helmut Lang design team, like Lang once did himself, has a good handle on the casual/formal way that urban creatives are dressing for their busy 18-hour days. “It has to be real,” said Selina Elkuch, who leads the team. That sounds like a simple formula, but sit through two weeks of Resort appointments and you’ll come to see it’s a tricky thing to get right. Best in show: a lace-trimmed black camisole half-tucked into the high waist of a pair of khaki cotton-silk cargos with utility zips at the ankles.