David Koma arrived in Paris after a stop at Berlin Fashion Week, where a Mercedes-Benz campaign film called “Burning Desire” featuring Eliot Sumner (her dad is Sting) and German model Lucie von Alten—both wearing Koma's designs—made its fashion show debut. Much is ignited in the Christian Larson–directed spot—lust, the silvery CLA sedan, a piano—but all the characters keep their cool in badass, all-black looks. From a showroom in Paris, Koma’s Resort collection came across with the same confidence, only more approachable. Nearly every look incorporated some sort of graphic aspect—from the metal and plexi triangles jutting dimensionally from necklines or torsos, to the cutouts and zigzag hemlines that framed exposed bits of body as geometric shapes. The sizable zippers swooping down the shoulders and up the skirt vents of dresses were functional; how much so will depend on the woman—and the time of day.
But if Koma’s form enhancing lines play to those who already take pride in their figure, he also showed how a clingy knit or bare midriff can reveal more than just a hot body. Longer, flared pencil skirts spliced with cubic lace and rounded sleeves slit open along the sides were grounded in mid-century silhouettes, while the controlled, laser-cut, or Swarovski crystal embellishments were an effort to direct light and vibration à la kinetic artist Heinz Mack. The jumpsuit supported by zigzag macramé lace looked as dynamic in the showroom as it does in the black and white photo; actually, any of the other looks integrating the material were winners, whether the black LBD or the white asymmetric top paired with relaxed trousers. The body-con dresses with their rhomboid patterning and color accents were so high impact they deserved running shoes just to see them at high speed. But the flat sandals, shown throughout the collection, hinted to Koma’s stance on ease of movement as highly desirable.
