Coach turns 75 this year and executive creative director Stuart Vevers is busy putting down his own milestones on the timeline with the first Pre-Spring collection in the brand’s history. The British designer has brought a youthful, buzzy energy to the accessories house since he joined in 2013, and builds on that momentum with his latest offering. Fast cars and the open road have been recurring themes for Vevers, and this season the archetypal rebel without a cause gets thrown into the melee of beloved Americana references he’s mined in the past, including the tried-and-true collegiate wardrobe and more quirky pop culture motifs (yes, Felix the Cat, we’re looking at you!).
The resulting clothes reinforce the cool-girl attitude and irreverent wit that has been Vevers’s calling card since he began. Outerwear is undoubtedly one of the brand’s strong suits, and the hybrid varsity-cum-moto jacket takes several forms for Pre-Spring, with raglan sleeves, fringing, and novelty appliqué all remixed and remastered in ways that are appealing and fresh. The best-selling floral dresses of Spring 2016 get a moody, biker-babe update as pretty patchwork plaid frocks, while Western-inspired silk shirts are finished with charming retro touches such as rocket launcher patterns. Vevers drives home his message with the accessories, and Coach’s utilitarian Rogue bag seems poised to be a future classic alongside the anniversary saddle bags in stores now, especially given the range of collectible styles on offer. Chances are, the patchwork and suede fringed versions in the bunch will fly off the shelves this winter.
