The new Calvin Klein Collection Resort lineup was designed by the studio team in the wake of Francisco Costa’s departure as creative director. The strongest item among the 21 looks here, a deconstructed slip dress pieced from differently sized black and white polka-dot prints, bore a strong resemblance to Costa’s recent outings for the label. A group of delicately printed floral dresses, two of them boasting fine hand-embroidered beading, was also memorable, partly for the fact that they struck you, in their sweetness, as rather unlike anything that the minimalist Costa ever did at the brand.
In between was a real grab bag. There was a crisp cotton tunic worn with sturdy wide-legged pants, knit baby-doll dresses that belted high below the bust, and a cropped and fitted leather motocross jacket teamed with a matching A-line miniskirt. Much of it came in khaki or white. Overall, it wasn’t quite noncommittal, but it didn’t really deliver a strong message for the season either. We’ll have to wait for the incoming creative director, whoever that might be, for a clearer point of view from this label.
