Notions of utility and practicality have never seemed to agree with Blumarine, a label that has always exuded a jeune fille en fleur, slightly Lolita-esque flair as a maker of clothes for bubbly types with a penchant for roses, pastel minks, and sparkling palettes. But evolution affects us all; fashion as a species has to adapt, the quicker the better. The new Blumarine girl, though still a dreamer, actually has to work, go to the supermarket, and deal with the boring, mundane tasks we all must face.
“She’s still a languid, romantic girl,” said designer Anna Molinari. “But now she’s more free and pragmatic. She favors an urban, more pared-down look. Flowers? Basta!” Sure enough, the collection felt as if the refresh button had been hit. Shapes were still feminine, yet had a modern feel, with just a touch of a ’50s sportswear-inspired spirit. Even the typical lingerie accents were less frou-frou. Volumes were gently comfortable, and floral embroideries were more graphic than usual, as in a bamboo motif appliquéd on the lace of a column dress. It all looked lighter, crisper, and with a natural allure. Yet the label’s hyper-feminine vibe couldn’t help but creep in; a powder-blue boxy mink jacket was trimmed with tulle and embroidered with colorful blooming flowers.
