To best capture the various personalities of her Resort offering, Barbara Bui opted to show the collection on three models. The point, she explained, was not so much to emphasize archetypes as to reflect the spectrum of strong characters who gravitate toward her brand. In this way, the clothes improved upon her signature strengths more than departing in any radical new direction. Leather, unsurprisingly, was the leitmotif—a laser-cut tunic with an expanding grid of perforations (chic in black; sleeker in ivory), a classic blazer laced with a leather lower panel, and a short-sleeved, streamlined leather motorcycle jacket will win over her followers for one reason or another.
When asked if there was any backstory to the square eyelet hardware that accented necklines and hemlines, Bui offered “samurai” as a reply. She’s betting that a tuxedo-cum-tracksuit in poppy red will tempt those who have invested in enough of her tailored black jackets. The birds of paradise print and animal-esque pattern in thermo-bonded micro-beads didn’t speak to anyone in particular, which is a risk when trying to reach everyone. But the lightweight wool coat in solid saffron will draw attention from customer and crowd alike.
