For Resort, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi didn’t stray much from their signature silhouette, relying on the excellent tailoring that has always been their forte. They’ve built their success around a precise, meticulous cutting technique; it’s a skill that many in the fashion world would envy, so why go down an experimental path just for the sake of being considered cool, hip, or edgy? The designers are too wise for that.
Style-wise, menswear-inspired shirting is a strong proposition for them, so it made sense that they built a substantial offer for Resort. Being obsessive about the quality of the fabrics, they used the crispest poplins and cotton piqués to give volume and—yes!—edge to the classic, streamlined shirt’s shape. They transformed the staple in countless iterations and hybrids, with asymmetries, with of-the-moment extra-long sleeves and huge cuffs, with stiff bows that decorated collars and open backs, and with geometric ruffles jutting from hems. The shirts looked inventive yet pristine, as did squarely cut raw denim jackets paired with high-waisted straight pants. Elsewhere, the designers indulged their penchant for prints. Looking at a Nick Knight exhibition inspired by Irving Penn’s famous book of flowers, they gave a floral pattern a solarized, surrealistic vibe. It looked good on a sharply cut blazer with slightly padded shoulders. “Blazers of this level are one of the few things that high-street fashion labels aren’t yet able to replicate,” they grinned.
