Alena Akhmadullina is one of the most successful designers in Russia. Her way of dipping into fantasy and using a variety of rich fabrics has solidified her appeal with the country’s elite. But Akhmadullina has bigger plans than simply maintaining an oligarch client base: She’s trying to break into the Western market. In turn, she is now paring back much of the more intense, homeland-appealing looks, but is still keeping the luxury aesthetic she’s best known for. This season, refreshing deviations from her more ornate styles included a tan wrap dress that was embellished with geometric patterns (an abstract translation of a dragon) and a cashmere cardigan that was embroidered with fox fur. Akhmadullina also introduced strong footwear, including ugly-pretty slides in white shaggy and short emerald green fur.
One thing that Akhmadullina doesn’t need to change for any market is her work with fur outerwear—it’s what she’s most skilled at. In a standout coat, she fused turquoise astrakhan together with mink, to give the piece a 3-D trompe l’oeil effect. It’s a head-turning piece that will keep her Russian customers loyal, and pique the interest of Western shoppers.
