Adam Lippes spent weeks on the road this spring, visiting department stores and spending time with salespeople and customers. He said it put a question in his mind when designing Resort: “Can I sell this?” That sounds straightforward enough as to be obvious, right? Actually, it’s a point that seems regularly overlooked in some corners of the New York fashion world. Years in the design room at Oscar de la Renta taught Lippes the importance of brand identity. As concerned as he sounds about the bottom line this season, he didn’t play it safe. Rather, he seemed interested in stirring things up a bit.
See: the emphasis on shocking pink and black-and-white zebra stripes. The former was put to electric use on a Chantilly lace dress and matching under-slip; the latter turned up on a terrific intarsia shearling, among other pieces. One look combined a black-and-white zebra jacket with a red-and-navy zebra T-shirt dress—full-on and casually fab. Bright yellow leather pants super-full to the ankle was another brave move that looked good with a navy ribbed knit with bell sleeves. As gutsy as all of those items are, Lippes didn’t ignore the more decorous aspects of his aesthetic. Case in point was a burnout silk and velvet dress dyed a rich panoply of different colors. It’ll sell. In fact, it will be hard to find a prettier dress this season.
