Versus Versace was founded in 1989 and had its first runway show in 1994: “We call it our baby, but it’s actually quite on old baby!” said one of the young designers of the in-house team while presenting the Pre-Fall collection. Growing up, the baby has gone through quite a lot of bumpy changes, seeing an array of designers on rotation taking the driver’s seat. Now Donatella Versace has focused her formidable force to refresh the label, giving it a more organized, practical, orderly, and consistent structure, streamlining its core values: a sportswear-inspired attitude, a strong urban street vibe paired with a youthful, sexy, cool energy.
The lineup revolved around urban essentials for an accessible, contemporary wardrobe that can appeal to a larger age bracket, whose youthful spirit has apparently nothing to do with their actual date of birth. An elevated sporty flair with a provocative allure was evidenced in sleek, zippered black jersey tracksuits emblazoned with the Versus logo, which elsewhere was reworked into a lightning bolt, becoming a pattern for printed shirts or puffa jackets or fused on metal mesh as an appliqué on short dresses. The infamous safety pin, a house signature, was given a twist, decorated with the roaring lion’s head that’s a Versus hallmark.
The sexy attitude ingrained in the label’s style was less obviously body-con, more subtle and light, for short evening slip dresses or midi shirtdresses with cut-outs on the back, or short tunics emblazoned with logos and the signature mesh patches. Black was the color of choice, with flashes of red, cobalt blue, and emerald green; fabrics had a strong techno feel. It all looked effortless and believable, with a bold yet easy edge.
