Donatella Versace—or “La Signora,” as she’s called by her faithful staff—seems to be in particularly great form. Not that she’s ever been less than spirited. By the looks of her new book Versace, a glossy tome published by Rizzoli, she has always celebrated a life of indomitable energy. Relentlessly driven, passionate, and with a fierce sense of cool, La Signora has achieved a celebrity status akin to that of the stars and First Ladies queuing up for her goddess dresses; now she’s definitely at the top of her game.
Lately, her fashion shows have also gained momentum, showing a strong sense of modernity. Donatella has always been able to tap into the zeitgeist; and sporty being the vibe of the moment, she has translated it in her hyper-luxurious, sexy way. This winning mood continued to infuse the Pre-Fall collection, which played on an uptown-downtown riff, where a zest for street attitude was elevated with experimental glamour. New techniques and custom-made fabrics gave an edge to sporty, urban shapes: Tweed was laminated or woven with techno threads for a textured glossy sheen and fil coupé was printed with curlicued motifs, which were also embossed on leather detailing or embroidered on tulle mesh. An elaborate new print graced city parkas in silk jacquard or was knitted into formfitting dresses; it was aptly called “barocco-flage,” a very Versace blend of Baroque-inspired swirls, animal prints, and camouflage. The urban vibe was softened by more feminine silhouettes, as in elongated, fluid midi dresses, where the sporty feel was evidenced through ruched drawstrings. Tailoring was kept sharp and linear; urban bombers, biker jackets, parkas, and city coats were spiced up by the Donatella treatment: a good dose of sexy, empowering, take-no-prisoners allure.
