Ralph Lauren shot his Pre-Fall lineup at The Polo Bar, a place that has been a hive of activity for well-heeled New Yorkers since it opened. The designer was known to spend evenings people-watching at stylish eateries in Europe before he became a restaurateur himself, and his latest collection draws on the chic observations he made on his travels. Lauren has had a long-standing love of Savile Row tailoring, and you can expect to find plenty of Prince of Wales check on the shop floor when the clothes goes into stores early next month. In addition to classic Laurenisms—patch-pocket blazers, double-faced trenchcoats, and cozy shearlings that would be completely at home in Annie Hall’s closet—there were more overtly feminine renditions of menswear tropes. With a built-in corset and off-the-shoulder silhouette, there’s nothing remotely androgynous about the brand’s new pantsuit, for example. Even die-hard dress devotees like Kate Middleton might be tempted to wear one, given its ladylike allure.
The duchess was something of a muse this season, as it happens. Her influence came through most strongly in a polka-dot ensemble—buttoned-up and demure, but far from dowdy. Of course, Lauren has a great deal of experience dressing women on the world stage, and his most pivotal fashion moments extend beyond the red carpet of Hollywood toward the hallowed halls of the White House. Whether your idea of a power suit includes a skirt, like Melania Trump, or sharply tailored trousers à la Hillary Clinton, there were several compelling options here. The jumpsuit is becoming a mainstay for evening at Ralph Lauren—the First Lady is a fan—and Lauren’s latest version comes covered with a sparkling ’70s-inspired equestrian motif. It would be a nice alternative to a traditional gown for a black-tie function, at home or abroad.