Plenty of designers lament delivery schedules: Why ship cold-weather merch in mid-spring when there are months of 95-degree forecasts ahead? Few of them truly act on that frustration. There have been countless fur jackets and coats in the Pre-Fall collections, for example. Not at Rag & Bone. Marcus Wainwright has been talking about delivering the right clothes for the right season for years, and his new lineup stays true to that formula. A sunset sweater with an image lifted from a vintage postcard, one of the collection’s central motifs, was made from lightweight cotton. Pants modeled after SAS uniforms came with a drawstring waist and a breezy loose fit, and the label’s bread-and-butter shirting featured the circa now-requisite cut-out shoulders and deconstructed asymmetries.
Rag & Bone is turning 15 in 2017. The brand has been denim-focused since the beginning, and Wainwright and his team have a natural feel for the stuff. There was a good variety of it here: The fit of a jacket in Japanese selvedge denim was slightly oversize, as rigid as a quilted denim jacket and miniskirt were soft. Another jacket with a boxy shape was cut in a camo-pattern denim jacquard, a treatment that felt fresh. To accessorize all that indigo, Wainwright had lived-in-looking garment-dyed sweatshirts, a souvenir jacket with a sunset embroidery, and a just-launched range of eight fragrances. The scent development process was such a kick, he reports, that he’s working on candles next.
