Piazza Sempione has gone through quite a lot of twists and turns lately; traveling such a bumpy, winding path seldom proves beneficial, neither from a creative nor a commercial standpoint. Collections have long been on the safe side, their appeal tarnished by some dull notes. Not that one expects Piazza Sempione to be the standard-bearer of extreme avant-garde. Yet a bit more modern polish would have been a welcome addition, adding some sparkle to often repetitive lineups.
But recently, the refresh button has been hit: A new creative team and a reportedly new company structure have brought about an energetic, more contemporary attitude. This was apparent in a compact, sleek Pre-Fall collection, built around wardrobe staples that were given a gently edgy twist. Piazza Sempione is about everyday, timeless pieces, yet the style factor here was stronger and more sophisticated; the sporty spin was handled with modern ease and with a light luxe polish. Outerwear made up a big chunk of the offering; volumes and shapes had comfortable, easy proportions. The urban, practical attitude was smoothed by the use of satiny, velvety fabrics and a touch of sensual fur, as in a dark gray hooded parka with detachable contrasting lining and mink trim. Worn with a pleated and paneled chiffon skirt layered over matching cropped slim pants, it made for a contemporary, stylish look. Speaking of pants—one of the house’s fortes—the variety was almost encyclopedic. They were flared, oversize, slouchy, high-waisted, straight, and cropped, or with the very of-the-moment extra-long hems. Paired with tailored blazers cut with a formfitting waist or worn with oversize masculine shirts printed with abstract motifs, they looked quite desirable and cool.
