Separates haven’t always been Monique Lhuillier’s thing, but she should keep experimenting with them. They’ve been a highlight of her recent Resort and Pre-Fall lineups, which tend to focus on her daywear offerings. That was the case this time around, as well: A shocking pink sequined jacket that tied with a black velvet bow was evening-appropriate but would look great with trousers or jeans, too. Bustier tops with sweeping trains have become a bit of a Lhuillier signature, so there was a sculptural one in hot pink layered over tuxedo pants. It packed all the drama of a red carpet gown but would let you move completely freely.
Lhuillier’s main reference this season was Spain, which came through in the color palette—more of that bright pink, black, and white—as well as the boleros and flamenco ruffles. But rather than go overboard with embroideries and frills, many of the dresses were surprisingly simple; a draped ivory gown featured a smattering of flowers and a black ribbon, and Lhuillier tried out new ideas like point d’esprit, velvet, and baroque pearl embroideries. Prepare to see lots more of those things in other Pre-Fall collections, too; the clothes may hit stores around June, but they’re also precursors to the Fall season, which will no doubt be rich with color and texture.
