As a designer known for fur and eveningwear, Gilles Mendel doesn’t always have to think about practicality. His gowns make it onto major red carpets no matter the season, and his fur offering ranges from featherlight calfskin jackets to mink-trim sweaters to super-plush chubby coats. You’ll find all of the above in his new Pre-Fall collection, plus an emphasis on more wallet-friendly daywear. In fact, Pre-Fall is Mendel’s biggest opportunity for the versatile, wearable—but still very feminine—pieces he calls “high day.”
Mendel is also known for couture-level embellishments, but many of the looks here were “precise and defined,” as he put it—razor-sharp trousers, crepe dresses, and muted lace separates. They made the ruffled party frocks and tiered gowns nearby appear all the more playful. Spain and Morocco were on Mendel’s mind this season—he used to spend his summers in Spain and recently took a trip to Morocco—but he was also inspired by vintage photos of the Rolling Stones. The mosaic-like embroideries and frilled sleeves were pure Marrakech; the leopard prints, skinny scarves, and giant pink furs were Stones-era glam at its best. Also reminiscent of the ’70s: embellished party dresses styled with fur stoles and flats. They looked cool and offhand in a way that sequins and tulle rarely do.
