For his latest Issey Miyake collection, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae took a trip back to the future. The brand known for its relentless experimentation with the technology of garment creation determined, this season, to incorporate some technologies of a very ancient kind, namely, shibori and Itajime dyeing, traditional Japanese techniques. That backward glance was echoed, as well, in this collection’s emphasis on shapes that hearkened back to the simple Issey Miyake silhouettes of old—those durable, beautifully draped pieces that have recently come back into vogue.
Of course, there were plenty of futuristic touches here, too. Alongside stunning minimalist items like the satin-finished wool overcoat with Arita ceramic buttons, there were also architecturally pleated garments created via the house’s signature 3D Steam Stretch technique, this time made using silk for a lighter weight, and eye-popping gradient stripe dresses done using the house’s Baked Stretch process. The vivid palette was a nod to the collection’s key reference, natural phenomena such as lightning bolts and rainbows, and that theme was echoed, as well, in this outing’s focus on materials with some iridescence or sheen. Even utilitarian items, like the clever adaptable jackets that buttoned off to become vests, or buttoned down to transform into parkas, got a little magic from their light-catching poly-blend fabric. It was a subtle touch, very much in keeping with the pared-back tone of the collection as a whole. This season, Issey Miyake seemed less about making daring statements than quiet, memorable ones.
