Meryl Streep was wearing a mirror-embroidered dress by Riccardo Tisci at the Golden Globes on Sunday night. It was a low-key, modest look by the standards of today’s awards shows—where acres of cleavage and naked dresses have rather sadly become de rigueur—but thanks to Streep’s provocative, anti-Trump speech, it will go down in Givenchy history. Ten years from now when we talk about Tisci’s tenure at the house, that dress will feature prominently.
The Pre-Fall lineup presented today in New York was at least partly a continuation of Tisci’s show for Spring. The mirror embellishments made reappearances, as did the mandala prints, this time on a flared pantsuit in icy shades of lavender. The collection was arranged by category: classic, fashion, and urban, with the mirrors and mandalas falling in the fashion category alongside a nipped-in trench accented with asymmetrical taped zippers. In the classic group, Tisci had cashmere camel coats and jackets with built-in silk scarves, and a lovely jet-beaded black tulle evening gown that came with a sandy-toned slip that suggested the look of a naked dress while remaining blessedly discreet. As for the urban section, it was inspired by American collegiate gear, and, as a member of Tisci’s design studio said—Tisci is in Paris working on the men’s and couture collections he’ll present later this month—it’s aimed at the brand’s youngest clients. Think leather motorcycle pants and lots of logos, the most notable example of which was a logo-intarsia’d mink baseball tee. It won’t go down in Givenchy history, but it’ll sell all the same.
