Giambattista Valli isn’t the first designer to have answered the siren call of the zodiac, since astrology ranks pretty high on the list of fashion-world obsessions. And yet as someone who surrounds himself with young, ethereal creatures of the night, Valli seems naturally aligned with the idea of star signs. Phases of the moon and stars were writ large in Art Nouveau–inspired brushstrokes throughout his new Giamba collection on ruffled chiffon blouses and dresses alike. Many of the flirty butterfly-collar minidresses came finished with literal butterfly embroidery, charming details that spoke to the whimsy that has been sweeping the runways since Alessandro Michele stepped in as the creative director of Gucci.
Still, there’s a playful side to Valli that’s all his own. He has a tendency toward romance that’s long established, and his eye for gamine style muses is well honed: Soko was a fan of his Giamba label before she became a front row fixture in Milan and Paris. You could certainly imagine the kooky French musician in many of these clothes, especially the more exuberant looks that were finished with those cosmic prints from head to toe. The eye-catching dancing naked lady illustrations in the collection were a standout, a literal print that would make for a youthful and refreshing change on the red carpet. Hollywood rising stars like Elle Fanning, a recent Giamba convert (she wore the label to a photocall for her latest movie, The Neon Demon, in Rome), and her sister, Dakota, would be wise to consider the eveningwear options here. For those looking for more down-to-earth fashion moments, on the other hand, the embroidered oversize hoodies and satin bomber jackets would certainly fit the bill.
