Frida Kahlo was the inspiration behind Etro’s Pre-Fall collection: “I’m such a fan of her work,” said Veronica Etro. “I own one of the pictures that the Japanese artist Yasumasa Morimura took of himself impersonating Frida.” The designer is in good company; Madonna is also known to be an avid collector of the Mexican artist and famously protective of her prized Kahlo possessions. So much so that the Material Girl denied loaning one of Kahlo’s most famous and troubling paintings, My Birth, to the Detroit Institute of Arts for its blockbuster Kahlo exhibition in 2015.
Kahlo’s life was not short of dramas and tragedies, yet what appealed to Etro was her powerful resilience and flamboyant, indomitable energy: “What I like about her is the passion, the strength of her personality, her attitude toward life,” enthused the designer, who called the collection Floral Frida, in homage to the painter’s unrestrained sense of color. And vivid color was definitely one of the lineup’s strong points, together with the house signature medley of prints and patterns. Adding a modern twist, paisley was mixed with stripes, and bold florals were contrasted by polka dots or by more graphic motifs. With prints and colors being so visually abundant, silhouettes benefited from smart, easy lines, fluid volumes, and short lengths, which gave a youthful twist to wrap pleated dresses, kimono-inspired dusters, and embroidered pajama pantsuits. Fabrics were both rich and light, with plenty of silks, cotton voiles, jacquards, and cloqués; laser-cut and sequined ruches graced asymmetric hems or décolletages. Adding to the decorative vibe, elaborate embroideries and appliqués were morphed into oversize earrings or glitzy necklaces and brooches. Frida Kahlo would have loved them.
