Color has been the big takeaway of many Pre-Fall collections, but Elizabeth and James might just have you craving a black and white wardrobe. The new lineup wasn’t exactly minimal; a better word might be calm. It was the opposite of superfluous. When the roomy linen trousers, wear-anywhere midi dresses, and poplin shirts hit stores (including Elizabeth and James’s first stand-alone shop in Los Angeles, which opened last July), you’ll want to grab a pair of silver earrings, flat sandals, and little else. Why weigh yourself down?
If that ethos sounds familiar, Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen’s vision for their other label, The Row, isn’t far off. The duo’s proclivity for long layers, slip dressing, and a restricted palette has informed the past few Elizabeth and James collections, as well. A couple of updates: “swirled” ruching, crinkled silk, and an emphasis on the waist, be it with skinny belts or wraparound sashes. Those details felt fresh, but they’re relatively timeless; other contemporary labels are still stuck on trendy finishes like fringe and fraying. On that note, a navy quilted silk jacket with a matching skirt looked unlike anything else you’ll see from Elizabeth and James’s peers, but you can bet the designers didn’t second-guess the look. They’re decisive and have a sense for when to rein things in, but also when to try something new and surprising.
