The heather gray Loden coat in Look 3 owes its striking bell-shape structure to one of Dice Kayek’s previous couture styles. Indeed, glancing at this lineup gave the impression that head designer Ece Ege understands how to dial down her dramatic silhouettes to manageable new volumes. She name-checked early-20th-century German photographer August Sander as an influence for Pre-Fall, noting that his sober aesthetic informed a white poplin shirt under a black oversize A-line coat in bonded flannel. It was one of a few compellingly masculine looks in a lineup that veered feminine judging by the high ratio of dresses. But showing them repeatedly with tough boots updated and expanded their perception beyond precious. See also: the strands of metallic sequins fronting a skirt and vest that were added in a way to evoke chain mail rather than lavish embellishment. Meanwhile, and likely to the relief of long-time customers, both the cape coat and the balloon-sleeved, panama silk gingham blouse paired with the crayon red pencil skirt, signaled that Ege has not moved away from certain mid-century codes of couture.
To those who find her silhouettes a tad outward nonetheless, a long, gauzy tulle dress with a satin overskirt—an “apron,” as she called it—offered elegant evidence that she can work in all dimensions. The coat embellished with bands of grosgrain and crystal factored in here as well, especially as showed with an ample pant. Of the latter, when the petite designer and her sister, Ayşe (who oversees the business side), insisted that being tall was not a prerequisite since the waist is cut high, her rigor elsewhere would suggest she’s worked this challenge through, too.
