Dennis Basso knows that there are no rules when it comes to eveningwear and fur these days—the two luxury touchstones on which he has built his business for more than 30 years. As a response to those shifts, Basso has been making his designs more interchangeable for an older and younger clientele. For Pre-Fall 2017, Basso’s merger of old and new aesthetics came through quite literally. Inspired by Charlotte Brontë’s Jane Eyre, there was a modern take on Victorian motifs: A lace bib dress had semi-sheer poet sleeves for a modest hint of allure, while a similar dress had a shortened thigh-skimming hem for a more overtly sexy touch.
Basso also used his trademark hand embroidery to add a youthful feel. One standout evening gown featured a scenic illustration picked out entirely in sequins, including a glittering owl with a charming fur trim around its face, while a black beaded phrase
a bit à la Gucci acted as a fun waist cincher. A lavender velvet trench was a real head-turner thanks to a colorful floral appliqué on the back. Basso joked that the coat “wasn’t for someone to wear in the rain,” and, in fact, one could wear it as a dress.
As for fur, there were tried-and-true pieces like a fox fur coat and boa that would keep the designer’s core group of uptown clients loyal. But he had something for first-time customers, too: A cropped jacket made from broadtail and sable could easily become the day-to-night go-to topper for a more downtown-minded generation.