Carven has yet to appoint the successor(s) to designers Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud, who left the label in October upon “mutual agreement.” As usually happens in these cases, the ensuing collections are executed by the existing studio team who are charged with making the transition seamless and sellable. Hence the noticeable pivot away from the duo’s idiosyncratic spin on Mme Carven—manipulated mash-ups of sweet-meets-tart—toward a restrained mix of everyday pieces for a modern ingenue. With the exception of a flaming ’80s magenta, the color register was lowered to a spectrum of neutrals; gone were the novelty surface treatments; and silhouettes boasted just enough modification to defy basic. Rounded shoulders, undulating necklines, and flounced hemlines were the type of benign details that felt fresh enough to persuade retailers; while a recurring floral motif of an argemone (a poppy species) seemed in keeping with Carven tradition.
The irony of such an easy offering is that it couldn’t be easy for those overseeing the work to establish a vision during this state of limbo. To their credit, the checked blouson with sheepskin sleeves, polished yet faintly punk footwear, and neo-preppie styling expressed enough personality to carry the brand through. As proof, the requisite slogan tops this season read “Moi Aussi” as a declaration from within that those unnamed are essential to Carven, too.
