This year marks Barbara Bui’s 30th anniversary of showing her namesake brand at Paris Fashion Week. For the time being, things remain pretty chill. “Très daywear,” was how she described her Pre-Fall offering. Then, as is now, there was the perfect black leather pant, shown in several styles, all designed to elongate and enhance. Among her updated leather grouping, two mixed-material pieces were noteworthy: a black jersey roll-neck with an integrated leather bandage skirt (great for travel) and a black jacket featuring a lower leather panel connected by a zipper (unzipped slightly for effect). Advancing along the racks of her Marais showroom yielded a number of other seasonal standouts, including a camel coat updated with a ribbed-knit collar and a well-constructed studded aviator jacket with sheepskin lining. A khaki green parka lined with watermelon pink rabbit fur couldn’t help but stand out. The color pairing recalls the sage and orange of original MA-1 jackets, giving the concept cred, even if the hue proves a bit too intense for some. Still, the general emphasis on outerwear would suggest the brand is filling a niche that may have previously been untapped.
Judging by the amount of showroom space dedicated to knits, they remain an essential category; here, however, a bit more newness would be welcome. Thankfully, for all the daywear, the designer has not abandoned the novelty men’s jackets—one fronted with Bakelite-style geometric pieces, another in shimmery gold—that are unmistakably evening. Should anniversary celebrations arise, these would honor the occasion.
