Andrew Gn can be counted on for collections that give off a cultivated air. His exhaustive knowledge of historical and artistic references means that the clothes are grounded in substance while keeping with his ebullient style. All this applies to his Pre-Fall offering, which began as a study of fashion designer Mariano Fortuny’s surface details before expanding outward to include the early masters of the Italian Renaissance. The first look, arguably the most dramatic, pitches lantern sleeves high onto a brocade vest with 3-D beading; as paired with the ruffle-neck blouse (his update on a Renaissance fraise), the result is an outfit worthy of high court. Several other pieces continue in this deluxe direction, underscoring Gn’s unwavering mind-set that “the whole point is to be exceptional.” But he has the discipline to rein in, too. The back coat paneled in ivory mohair lace, a gold and silver asymmetric poncho accented with fringe, and even a grayscale sweatshirt knit outlined with passementerie present women with wearable items that they don’t already have.
The designer also introduced a folkloric grouping with nearly all the detailed prints and vibrant fabrics developed in-house. The finely crafted pieces in crushed velvet with black lattice trim go well beyond boho. The only issue—and it’s a subjective one—is that the themes are slightly at odds; retailers that feel the same may opt to choose one or the other. But such variety works in Gn’s favor as far as gown possibilities, certainly at this time of year. The lacquered-effect green brocade with its iridescent bodice of cut feathers seems like a strong red carpet contender.
