One might think that Russian designer Alena Akhmadullina may be running out of stories to tell after more than 10 years in the fashion business. Especially since her collections are inspired by many different folkloric tales—could there really be that many? But like magic, she’s respun another fantastical narrative into a Pre-Fall lineup full of rich colors, fabrics, and furs, all of which, by the way, would look marvelous on any of her famous fans, from Amal Clooney to Georgia May Jagger. This season’s flora and fauna motifs were borrowed from the fable of the glowing firebird, a story that also involves imagery such as a tsar’s grand palace and an orchard filled with golden apples.
Appropriately, Akhmadullina’s silhouettes hark back to a regal age, with mink-lined robes printed with vibrant tangerines, hunter green silk pajama suits adorned with red apples, and a quilted overcoat made to look as if it were snatched off the back of a Mongolian king way ahead of his time, sartorially speaking. Aside from the sumptuousness of the collection, there were certain standout pieces that really showcased Akhmadullina’s couture training: slip dresses with layered velvet and satin pattern work, black tulle evening gowns with hand-painted silk embroidered patches, and elaborate intarsia knitwear.
If the St. Petersburg–based designer’s current story is her rise to fame in the States, it’s clear from this collection, and her Spring 2017 offering, that the plotline is very much in her favor. Though her clothes may look unapproachable from farther away (note: the sweater with the giant fur wolf creeping across its surface), it’s obvious that with some of her newer separates she’s making headway with American retailers—Akhmadullina is currently available at Moda Operandi and in Curve boutiques in the U.S.. As for next season, we’re quite sure that she will be giving us another page-turner.
