By holding a crystal-inlaid brooch in the Thierry Mugler trademark star design—all jaggedly mismatched Angel-bottle angles—against looks on the board backstage, you could see how directly David Koma had translated its shape into this collection.
We started with bold pointed shoulders on high-shine outerwear with radiating lapels and dresses that contrasted blue fabric with black leather pleating in sharp isosceles relief. A fine nude-at-the-arm Le Smoking with a shoulder line that featured little star studs twinkling on the sheer sleeves. Generously ribbed cashmere sweaters were so soft they slipped down their wearers’ arms as they marched to a heavily deconstructed remix of George Michael’s “I Want Your Sex.” Models wore contrastingly unyielding back skirts in fabric strafed with star contours in silver and blue pin or leather with star-silhouette cut-outs. And so the sky turned. Different star systems included a longer section of plissé twinkling against black and springy lamé bodices, and tops and dresses angularly folded around the body in silver or midnight blue. The concept was straightforward, but the effect was powerful. Lovers of powerfully shouldered suiting should set their sights on Mugler next season.
