If Marianne Faithfull circa 1960s and Yves Saint Laurent via Morocco were the latest headline references cited by Rachel Wilder-Hill, Joie’s VP of design, her own backstory was woven into the mix as well. “I would be digging around souks and medinas with my parents as a kid,” she said, noting how this collection’s rich pattern and textile references were often a reflection of her lifelong wanderlust. Being based in L.A., meanwhile, provides her with the ideal breezy constant. But Paris, she insisted, still remains at the heart of the brand: “She’s always a French girl, no matter where she is.” Thus, a collection that served up a bounty of mix-and-match pieces that, despite their cultural past, belonged very much in the present.
Like other designers this season, Wilder-Hill has gravitated toward dusty pink, and her unstructured sweater robe coat will no doubt appear on many market pages once magazines begin prepping for Fall. Tied for second were the camel duffel with ruffled trim and a plaid caban that appeared pre-faded. But because the brand doesn’t propose pieces to exist in isolation, the lookbook offers a solid sense of how a men’s blazer and Victorian collar blouse match surprisingly well with a Moroccan blanket–inspired miniskirt. Or how an army shirt with deliberate signs of distress benefits from a boho pleated skirt pairing. Wilder-Hill drew attention to developing knit jackets in lieu of the traditional woven, granting that customers will likely intuit an enhanced ease without knowing why. Conversely, silk velvet pajama suiting holds no mystery and would be well received quite soon after heading out into the night.