The opening look at today’s Ermanno Scervino show actually seemed like a first for the designer. A masculine Prince of Wales pantsuit was cut with sartorial precision—its tailored jacket had a flattering fitted hourglass shape and the pants were elongated, fluid, and slouchy. The model was comfortably wearing sturdy brogues—another likely first! It definitely wasn’t a look associated with Scervino’s customary hyper-feminine, fit-for-an-Italian-bombshell kind of style. It set the tone for a different attitude. Actually, it looked quite cool.
Over-the-knee black flat biker boots grounded the collection, which played around tailored mannish outerwear of slightly oversize proportions. Military-inspired coats had a strong, protective, and powerful vibe. Va bene! But the leopard cannot change its spots, and Scervino couldn’t do without a generous helping of the sensual glamor that he loves. Extensive diva-worthy fur collars and striped mink sleeves added a softer touch to corduroy city coats, while flimsy, see-through dresses in chantilly and Valenciennes lace or point d’ésprit peeked alluringly under voluminous coats in checkered wools.
Embellishments were handled with a certain restraint. The designer focused instead on exquisite textures, as in an off-white tuxedo in wool macramé, whose jacket had a built-in corset which gave a sexy roundness to the hips. A long matching duster with a white fox collar was thrown over the shoulders with feigned nonchalance. It looked feminine, assertive enough, and quite sensational.
