The only real giveaway that this collection marks Dice Kayek’s 25th anniversary is a striped poplin shirt covered in doodle-esque embroideries and emblazoned with a red crystal heart. Shown with a giant tulle party skirt, it features a birthday cake; stick figures of Ece Ege and her sister, Ayşe; postcards of Paris; and other twee souvenirs. But those unfamiliar with the Paris-based line wouldn’t be mistaken for gleaning a festive, party vibe from several of the other looks with their jeweled flourishes, accents of gold (namely, an unapologetically gaudy gilded blouse edge with ruffles), and volumes best suited to special occasions. But this is pretty much standard fare for the Turkish designer who doesn’t shy away from styling her elegant creations with a faintly goth twist. “It’s important to propose things that are exceptional,” said Ege, whose most basic shirts boast bulbous or bishop sleeves and striking plastrons.
Newness this season came from a modified Prince of Wales check in blue and red. As a crisp Mikado unlined coat or slim trouser, it felt less like suiting and more like a piece revived from the 1950s. There was also a beautiful bronzed brocade with a backstory (briefly, it was custom made by a textile manufacturer in her native city of Bursa) that rendered it especially unique. Amidst the label’s best-selling black and navy cocktail looks, which Ege summed up as “beautiful and sober,” she introduced a small grouping in khaki green wool, which she cut with poppy red blouses. Not all women will want such dramatic shapes for day, but to see her unwavering commitment to well-constructed volumes is to know that couture values are alive and well in ready-to-wear today. And while Dice Kayek isn’t planning much in the way of celebrations, it was easy enough to conclude that the collection’s two novelty prints—colorful glass marbles and an interpretative Lego block motif—as shown on a puff-sleeve blouse and maxi skirt, respectively, were gifts that remain forever fun.