Of late, the Antwerp-based designer Christian Wijnants has been mulling over how to bring more coherence to a frenzied fashion cycle. His very logical solution: Incorporate pre-collection pieces into his main runway collection. The welcome result is a recognizable train of thought. This season, it runs through Persian destinations the designer has never visited in real life, but no matter.
“The idea was a borderless world,” Wijnants commented without irony. “I wanted to take an imaginary trip and I have a lot of clients and friends who are originally from those countries. I find those women and cultures very inspiring.”
The designer’s freshly dreamed-up land proved surprising, improbable, and also winning. Wijnants flexed his talents as a colorist in a freewheeling exploration of bright color and print with jacquard knits, silks, and nylons all layered one atop another. One highlight: a braised orange shearling worn over three iterations of prints—red shirt, blue skirt, green pants—that proved how a whole can be greater than the sum of its parts. It shouldn’t have worked, but it did. He also worked hand-frayed strips of yellow and black print into a faux-fur-style bomber.
Elsewhere, the designer stuck to a more familiar register with baggy washed denims and oversize knits. Solid pieces, such as fuchsia trousers in organza, an accordion-pleated skirt in silver lamé, or a sharply tailored black coat let the show breathe easier. Backstage, the designer remarked that he’d had a lot of fun this season. “Right now, we’re seeing a lot of designers who are being successful by just doing their thing and not looking at trends,” he said. “I’m lucky because I have a great team, and we have the freedom to share a passion.” And to bring in more friends: The graffiti earrings by French designer Marion Vidal, a former classmate, will be sold alongside Wijnants’s fashion lineup.
