Alexis Mabille began his lineup with a black suede sweatshirt dress boasting an embroidered white-lace dove clasping an olive branch in its beak, which he paired with metallic gold, thigh-high boots. If pacifist sport chic is among the consequences of these strange, unknowable times, well, we might be okay after all. Kidding aside, the dressed-up daywear and swish soirée looks resonated strongly this season, thanks to their sincere messaging. Indeed, with this offering, Mabille treated his ultrafeminine starting points with greater neutrality and nonchalance. For all the flare of a bustier shirtdress in golden silk or ball gown skirts tied at the waist, classic shirts encrusted with lace and brocade in blue and gold that conjured deluxe denim were the type of separates that could accompany women from client presentation to first date.
Mabille enlisted French duo, Smoking Smoking, to provide a live performance; if their gold catsuits seemed unreasonably flashy, their confident voices and thoughtful lyrics gave the collection a different kind of creative, spontaneous spin. If only Mabille could learn to dial back some of the stylistic flourishes—a sweatshirt need not have been tied around the waist of a gown, and pearl or gold buttons could have been smaller than gumballs—his skills could attract a wider customer base. No matter; his long-time admirers are probably already anticipating the moment his lace jogging pants, striped silk shirtdresses, and yes, those gold cuissardes, start arriving in stores.
