If Bella Hadid has had an exceptionally busy start to 2017, she still made time to open Alexandre Vauthier’s haute couture show in January, then fill the pages of his uber-sleek lookbook, as shot by David Bellemere. She looked rather flawless on the runway, yet somehow looked even better here, owing perhaps to her dramatic body language and a sleeker look. The clothes, meanwhile, amounted to something of a savvy déjà vu. Vauthier quite literally has the luxury of parlaying the ideas developed for couture into ready-to-wear, modifying the details in order to scale up the production. The looks correspond well, such that the one-shoulder numbers featured sequins instead of Swarovski crystals, and the tricked-out motocross sweater with mohair incrustations of even more crystals had become a pared-down color-blocked hoodie. People might have difficulty distinguishing between the tweed specially woven by Maison Lesage and the new one redone by a machine.
Lest this seem as though Vauthier is designing two collections for the time commitment of one, he assures this is not the case. Notwithstanding the challenge of sourcing fabrics as close to the couture originals as possible, he must also determine all the micro-adjustments that are necessary when couture fittings are not an option. What’s more, the pieces can’t look too identical, or else he undermines both his craftspeople and his one-percent clients. Which, among other reasons, is why the collection and the corresponding footwear range addressed additional aspirational concerns. The ivory caban, cable-knit sweater, and pants add up to a jet-set bet, whereas the ’80s electric blue leather jacket could be worn with ripped jeans for that quintessential off-duty-model look. Seriously though, amid enough LBDs to outfit his main roster of muses without fear of repetition, the down-filled black velvet coat stood out as the true sleeper hit. A little femme fatale, a lot of comfy, it gave the impression of being dressed up no matter what is or isn’t underneath.
