In some respects, this latest Aalto collection picked up where Pre-Fall, with its Paradise Lost narrative, left off. Tuomas Merikoski modified his elongated, layered suiting with patchwork stripes veering this way and that. He also revisited the integrated and removable panels of fluffy tinted fur, furthering his collaboration with Saga Furs; introduced new versions of his openwork knits; and reworked the airbrush print of bohemian maidens in a fantastical Lapland landscape by Sami Saramäki.
But that was just part of the story, as the Paris-based, Finnish designer is never just depicting a mass-market paperback protagonist. This season, his composite of adventurous spirits seemed even more assertive and mature than in the past, thanks to what he described as a futuristic, “punk energy,” which was used to offset his inclination toward classic tailoring. This produced no shortage of office-appropriate looks for young professionals who want to, you know, dress like women in a nonconformist, forward-leaning way. The spliced shirtdresses, trousers with belted leg detailing, and mohair coats could all be easily integrated into an existing work wardrobe. Less so the emerald ensemble, meant to project “hope and ecological thinking”; such good intentions were better represented by the jacquard sweater set.
The final two looks, convertible outfits created from certified, post-consumer recycled down and fabricated by Italian brand Duvetica, reiterated Merikoski’s openness to conscious design and collaboration in a way that felt especially innovative, cool, and reflective of all his references. “A puzzle of good things that makes for a democratic view,” was how he summed up his effort. And indeed, nearly everything fell nicely into place.
