Imagined as a portfolio of characters inhabiting abandoned human structures, this was an alluring collection packed with attractively cut garments in the mind-melting weaves and fabrications that Missoni does best.
Plush-stitched cashmere zip-up jackets and half-zip sweaters, reach-out-and-touch-it tactile, came in the most straightforward pattern of the collection: wide horizontal stripes. Iridescent viscose sweaters flecked with a tufty fuzz of mohair came in rich plum and purple swirls. Mohair sweaters were patterned with oxidized silver starry snowflakes in a pattern apparently sourced from Japanese Kasuri textiles. One check jacket featured about 70 separate colors, another around 54. The few sartorial offerings—this was overwhelmingly casual overall—came in a dense houndstooth that was primarily purple yet due to house alchemy didn’t look especially so: kaleidoscope camouflage. Larger-scale houndstooth, more conventionally toned, was used in cropped and long overcoats and duffles. Some came in patches stitched together on cashmere facing within.
Accessories include pop-up-able bucket hats by Larose Paris, pattern-complementing scarves, and some great molded-sole sneakers. The last look featured a topcoat, ostensibly gray, whose subtly insinuated shivers of oily viscose created slick patches of purple and blue that rippled with movement. It was the climax to a lovely collection whose intensely worked technical intricacy never compromised the ease and unpretentiousness of the clothes.
