Francesco Risso signaled his debut as Marni’s creative director with a runway marked by three digital art chambers alternating between striped vortexes and Second Life-style domestic scenes, which models walked through as if passing from one period of the brand’s history into the next. What were they wearing in post–Consuelo Castiglioni world? Noticeably rumpled clothes, for starters. Indeed, anyone trying to piece together the backstory might conclude that this season’s protagonist was too busy coding to consider ironing his micro-plaid pants and thrift store suits—all a tad too roomy (perhaps he’d also skipped a meal or three). When probed post-show for the general idea, the Prada alum explained, “It’s when you see a person on the street and you think, ‘Wow, what’s happening there?,’ but through the vision of a child.” He added: “Like a child on a computer tapping one plus one; it’s like announcing the vulnerability that you want to bring ahead to your adulthood.”
If this description didn’t entirely add up, it did suggest that Risso was contemplating the gray area between youthful experimentation and grown-up self-expression, which, to be sure, has been a Marni tenet through and through. Risso also carried over the idea of oddball hero pieces, whether the coats in assorted fur checkerboard squares, or the quilted checked sweatpants with matching vests. As the show progressed, it became clear that the modified pajama suits and fur-patched jackets were designed to be seen. As in, no matter how much time this guy spends in front of his computer, he’s hardly antisocial. And when he goes out—be it to a gallery opening or a rave—he’s accessorizing his hand-painted outfit with a DIY utility belt or bucket hat repurposed from a shaggy throw pillow. Overall, this outing was creative in a way that will excite some guys and seem unhinged to others. For now, it paints a favorable picture of Risso as someone who feels no obligation to play it safe.
