As one of the many tumultuous events that took place in the fashion world last year showed, it’s not easy to convince the Masters of the Universe that they should want to look like the Gods of Rock. The clothes need to promise you can be forever young and eternally cool, while still looking like a guy whose income involves a healthy amount of zeroes with an enviably located decimal point. Trying to get these two to perform in sync is a challenge—discordant feedback or a deafening silence is the norm, rather than a deliciously nagging refrain you can’t get out of your head.
When Véronique Nichanian decided to spin Hermès in that direction, she wisely turned the volume way down. “Rock-mantic” is how she described her show, not backstage exactly, but kind of on the edge of the runway itself, so deep was the throng of well-wishers who’d come to offer their congratulations almost as soon as the last look disappeared. Nichanian expanded on her theme: “There are so many different ways to express the notion of masculinity; with this collection, I worked on the proportions—wider pants, bigger shoulders, narrower pants—without being too exaggerated.”
The “rock” part was exemplified by the lambskin and shearling blousons, skinny leather pants, and softly collapsing wool overcoats shrugged on and occasionally fastened with what Hermès dubbed the Cityslide messenger bag. (Translation: If you’re an American, fanny pack. If, like me, you’re British, bum bag.) The “romantic” part was evident in the Lord Byron–goes–Brian Jones cut of Nichanian’s double-breasted suits, what with the jackets adorned with six buttons and cut to close high and tight on the chest, best in a smoky gray velvet or navy blurred-out pinstriped wool. Their matching pants were worked to be a little looser, a tad more relaxed. Everything came with a pointy substantial black leather boot with just the right amount of buckles and strap (one of each, no more, no less). The results were quiet, more acoustic set than the noise you’d associate with a sell-out concert at MSG, but perhaps, given the decibel levels the world is set at right now, that’s no bad thing. It’s Hermès, after all; these are pieces—like the strikingly good shearling cable-knit sweater—that are meant to be on heavy repeat in your closet, not barely remembered one-hit wonders.
