The ’80s cult action movie Revenge of the Ninja served as inspiration for Diesel Black Gold men’s Fall collection: Creative director Andreas Melbostad was drawn to the Japanese secret agents’ enigmatic aura. Ninjas were shrouded in mystery, black-clad warriors who blended so seamlessly with darkness as to become almost invisible, carrying out the most feral tasks with deadly precision. Their suave ferocity was probably what appealed to the Norwegian designer, together with the concept of protection, which, in Diesel Black Gold’s parlance, is not exactly synonymous with coziness. Their fighters are right out there roaming the urban jungle; they’re not couch potatoes watching TV at home under a cashmere blanket.
There’s elegance in Japanese martial arts; Melbostad delved with gusto into their stylish language, injecting Diesel Black Gold’s wardrobe staples with a Japanese-inspired flair. Kimonos, one of the simplest and most elegant shapes, were reworked as a sort of modern armor and tinged with a retro-sporty feel, as in a dark blue tunic/jacket hybrid in Japanese raw denim and finely quilted nylon. It was belted samurai-style, worn with a pristine masculine striped shirt and loose, cropped raw denim pants. Volumes were precisely cut yet comfortable and oversize, like urban carapaces with a combat attitude. They were slightly smoothed by motifs embroidered on the back of leather bomber jackets or on biker pants. A sporty-retro feel together with a military flair was woven throughout the collection, whose neat, compact look didn’t detract from a sense of powerful ease.
As is now customary in many men’s presentations, a few women’s looks were also shown; here, a capsule was specially designed, which will be delivered at the same time as the men’s collection. “I used the same vocabulary,” said Melbostad backstage. A late-’70s/early-’80s silhouette was apparent in short black leather pinafores, whose geometric pleats were armor-inspired, their tough, assertive look barely eased by printed floral tunics. In Diesel Black Gold’s land, membership to a secretive ninja clique is highly recommended for girls, too.
