“Volume transitioning” was the operative catchphrase at Casely-Hayford this evening, where creative director Joe Casely-Hayford, and son Charlie, designed a collection in celebration of the former’s roughly 30 years in business. Also, news: Where last season saw a testing-the-waters introduction of womenswear, this time around the Casely-Hayfords launched a fully hashed out female line. It was shown at the same time as men’s, which is increasingly the norm here in London.
But, back to the boys. The highest marks go to the opening look, which featured a tweedy, tonal parka of blue and near-black in an abstract circular print. It had a large, scooped fishtail too, and what we’ll call a statement collar. The piece will be a nice option for the gent who likes his coats versatile, yet moderately this side of quirky. Outerwear won overall—an anthracite-hued jacket with a big, almost '70s-esque curved collar was also strong.
Where those above-mentioned adjustments in cut and shape succeeded, other parts felt more jumbled; too much was packed in on this catwalk. A suit with shortened trousers was singularly and purposefully distressed, leaving free-flying hanging threads—it seemed a little random. There was also a bewildering jumper with a mock crewneck collar hanging at a right angle from the actual collar. Strange crops, on the womenswear too, confirmed the shot amiss; a cleaner focus and/or styling edit would’ve aided the Casely-Hayfords here.
