If the Canali presentation was meant to give a sense of the offering to come, it was also about how it came to be. Thanks to a short film by Italian director Ivan Cotroneo, guests could watch the construction of a suit, only in reverse, backtracking through the various stages so that the end yielded the beginning: a hand sketching on a blank page. Set to music by Oscar-winning composer Dario Marianelli (film-score geeks like this reviewer will think of Atonement and Eat Pray Love), the touching concept gave an accessible narrative to a brand that people revere whether or not they have ever worn the clothes. But for those who are themselves customers, you already know that this collection felt exceptional to the touch. The switch from a runway show to a tableau vivant allowed guests to glide their fingers along suits and coats in double-faced cashmere that often also contained vicuna, silk, or chinchilla, and better understand the signature Kei deconstructed design, which eschews an inner structure. Newness appeared less in the realm of silhouette—each look respectfully slim and sharp—than in a nuanced tilt of a Prince of Wales check, or turning a versatile field jacket into an object of desire thanks to pure cashmere treated like sheered sable fur. A ticket pocket sized for mobile phones in contrast fabric will speak to men incentivized by practicality over indulgence (see the velvety alpaca robe coat in a rich shade of rosy Barolo).
“We have been doing this for over 80 years, but the challenge every time is to send the same message in a different way,” noted Elisabetta Canali, who represents the third generation of the family business. Asked to reiterate that message in words, she replied, “Craftsmanship, excellence, made in Italy.” The launch of design workshops for students from select fashion schools, part of a new heritage initiative, seems like a noble pay-it-forward.
