At Boris Bidjan Saberi, Fall 2017 will promise much of the same—that is, clothes and accessories that are unconcerned with populist convention and general politesse. When part of your thinking includes spiked boots—so violent in construct that if they stepped on you, they’d maybe kill you—normal codification doesn’t really apply. Or matter. (To note, these are part of an ongoing collaboration with the outdoor specialist brand Salomon.)
If there was a bloodline beyond the apoca-gothic, it’d be mountaineering. Those spiked hikers mimicked the sort used for ice climbing. Also, Saberi is known among fans for his knits—one example this afternoon had a nobby stitch, an altitudinal neck, and contrasting piles of heavy ropes. That was cool, and, even though outré, we could see it pulled off with the right styling.
Otherwise, Saberi suggested big and shaggy yeti coats, purposefully dirtied parkas (you have to give him credit for his clearly labor-intensive fabric treatments), harness elements, and signature leather jacketing—so heavy and full-throttle, the pieces seemed to crackle as they walked by. He may win over new fans with more relaxed parts—dropped-low trousers, relatively simple khaki waistcoats—but for the most part, this lineup was par for the coarse.
