Boglioli opted for a presentation this season, ditching the catwalk for a more intimate approach, a fitting homage to its superb craftsmanship that could be fully appreciated up close. Davide Marello, the label’s lanky, polite creative director, was on hand to welcome guests, walking them through the lineup as if the display were mimicking the long promenades that he enjoys, strolling daily through Milan’s most secret corners. “I love Milan in winter when it’s foggy,” he said dreamily, sounding like a romantic character out of a Stendhal novel. Fog in winter is actually a peculiar adornment of the city landscape; thick and dense, it shrouds everything in a muffled layer of blurring perceptions. It looks quite magical, the not-so-romantic Milanese pollution notwithstanding.
Marello is a cultivated designer, with a suave yet analytical approach. His love for blurred atmospheres led him to an appreciation of photographer Saul Laiter’s work, with its misty interiors; abstract city views from steamy car windows on rainy days; and poetic, delicate voyeuristic portraits. “I tried to convey this sense of velatura into the collection,” said Marello, referring to a peculiar painting technique mastered by Leonardo da Vinci in his landscapes, depicting the foggy surroundings of Italy’s northern lands. All this weighty cultural baggage somehow gelled in Boglioli’s lineup; the designer was able to translate his idea of patina in a dynamic way, using the latest technologies on textures and colors to achieve a modern, luxurious effect.
Boglioli’s signature style revolves around a construction technique that leaves jackets and coats light as feathers, totally unlined yet perfectly fitted, elegant but décontracté, with an easy feel combined with high quality. Marello added his poetic flair to the color palette of muted blues, octanes, and teals. To achieve the “foggy” finish that he envisioned, he had textures creatively treated by cutting-edge technologies. Bouclé wools, flannels, tartans, and sables were combed and almost “ripped,” or puffed up by special garment-dying techniques. The signature K-blazer retained its soft, malleable shoulders and was paired with high-waisted pants; lines and silhouettes were kept comfortable for a stylish, cool allure. It all had a classy but up-to-date feel. Those soft blazers and tartan slim city coats would look lovely on girls, too; perfect for strolling with practical nonchalance on a Milanese foggy morning.
