That curled cursive that ran here and there throughout this collection when etched onto the models read “l’avenir,” or future. And as clothes for palely loitering in the present while wistfully looking forward, these were lovely costumes for the cosmetically contemplative. Sébastien Meunier presented looks in which a composite of ingredients were presented in differently disassembled combinations. These included white shirting, lace, and ruffles, its black equivalents (but less of), darkly textured tailoring cinched by strap or slashed at idiosyncratic spots, and the odd bit of fur (lining outerwear, or as richly dyed personal plumage pads, and lace bralettes or pec-covering high mini-waistcoats). To top it all off were wide-brimmed hats garlanded with feathered flourish.
The gossamer lightness of the shirting in lace, gauze, or cotton and sometimes double layered at different lengths, contrasted finely against the moody heaviness above it. The combinations, although all varied in their detailing, became repetitive—this was a big collection—but when there were exceptions to the majority like a brown suit, a shinily striped skinny-fit top, a couple of loose-knit parchment-color sweaters above skinny-ish soft pants, and the fur and velvet near the end, they were delicious exceptions.
