Agape Mdumulla and Sam Cotton’s Fall 2017 collection for Agi & Sam was not their best, though there were a couple of hits in the discombobulation. Their concept combined an alignment with Woolmark, and thus, a woolen focus (more than 80 percent of the garments were made of some sort of wool), with a live set by the DJ Holy Other of Boiler Room.
At the end of the day, the clothes are what matter—and Fall had a few highlights, like a great scarlet XL-sleeved bomber with basketball-court-like piping (granted, bits in this vein veered toward Givenchy territory) and a relatively simple black hooded coat with broody red buttons. Yet there were notable disconnects—tufted and pulled trousers or topcoats, in windowpane or houndstooth motifs, didn’t really sync with a color-blocked leather windbreaker or cropped bi-chrome trousers. Remove the live set from the equation and the collection’s identity didn’t quite seem clear.
